New Statenzijl - space travel starts here
The bike ride from Winschoten to Nieuwe Statenzijl, in the north-eastern tip of Groningen, is not necessarily picturesque. At least, not in the traditional sense of the word. There are other things. It is almost a spiritual experience to cycle through the country on your own here. Because whether you are alone or in pairs, in the end you always cycle alone. During the trip, you are then automatically confronted with the excess of space you have to pass through. Indeed: that space falls over you.
That feeling of absolute nothingness happens to you when you dismount and stop for a moment. We are lucky that there is little or no wind on the day we cycle to the Dollard. When we dismount and stand in a field, silence falls over us. That silence has something powerful and overwhelming; it has presence. This is also because you can see so incredibly far and at the same time realise that almost nothing or no one is moving in the space, at least, so it seems. Lots of views with lots of silence, leading to an alienating otherworldly sensation.
Once we arrive at Nieuwe Statenzijl, we see the Kiekkaaste: a bird-watching house in the middle of the salt marsh. Surrounding the cottage is a sea of reeds that almost seem to float above the grey waters of the Dollard.
Bokum - the salt marsh beckons
Kloosterburen, where the coastline once ran close by, is our starting point. Beautiful village, Kloosterburen; all built in the same colour of red brick. We pass the farms new and old Bokum of the Meijer family. In the yard are piles of bricks and all sorts of variations of humps. Farmers are bulldozers. Not just in the yard, we also see humps on concrete flats along the field. We find soil and a pile of bantams around an electricity shed. Bumps. We look at them in preparation for that big lump, that lump of lumps: the dike.
We cross the slaperdike at Bokum. There is something lovely about the land behind it, a hint of pale green hovers over the sea clay. It undulates a little. Arriving at the sea dyke, we climb the taut billiard sheet of grass. The grass blends seamlessly into the asphalt. This is engineering art par excellence. By now the wind has picked up and we look longingly at the salt marsh.
We brave a cattle fence and enter the outer dike area. The salt marsh is the opposite of the dike. It is diffuse and uncertain land. Small reed-covered islands seem to float on the water. A desire to stay here comes to mind. But the landscape is unforgiving. If you walk towards it you sink; if you stay here you are absorbed and truly become one with nature. We feel our muscles. The sucking mud, which unbalances us, has taught us a lesson in humility. This country may be unsteady and uncertain. But it is unique and every Dutchman should go there to understand what it means to live between land and water.
Here you can also go to the dyke
You can go to the dike in more places in Groningen. Some are familiar, others you have to look for. There you will find beautiful views of the salt marshes and the only remaining true nature of the Netherlands: the Wadden Sea.
Noordkaap - The northernmost tip of the Dutch mainland, that's Noordkaap. Art work 'De Hemelpoort' marks the spot. From here you have an unobstructed view over the water and the infinite sky above the Wadden Sea. Noordkaap is about ten kilometres north of Uithuizermeeden. There are signs from the village. Follow the route by car, bike or on foot.
Termunterzijl - In Termunterzijl you eat fish, at least, many people do. And preferably as uncomplicated as possible. At fish restaurant Landman, for instance, or Vispaleis Westerhuis. On the dike you blow out with a view of the Eems. Don't forget the beautiful lock the Boog van Ziel. Cycling in the area is a must. And you can park your car just about on the dyke.
Punt van Reide - This narrow headland is the remnant of the once prosperous Reiderland. Now nature has free rein here. On the way, you pass the Fiemel Batterie: a remnant of the German Atlantic Wall from World War II. The Punt van Reide is east of Termunten. You cannot get to the Punt by car. Walking and cycling are.
Nieuwstad - No town to be seen at Nieuwstad, but there is a double dike: a high one on the sea side and a lower one inland. This is where safety, nature, agriculture and recreation come together. On the dike, you have a view of bird nesting island Stern. Nieuwstad is located above Bierum. You can get there by bike, car or just walking.
Lauwersoog - At the port of Lauwersoog, the boat leaves for Schiermonnikoog. But there is lots more to do. On and around the dike you will find art: from a huge fishing net and a lookout to a staircase in the dike. Eating fish is excellent here, overlooking the mud flats. Walking, cycling: you can do it all. And getting here by car is perhaps the easiest of all destinations on the dike.
Pieterburen - From the mudflat walking capital of the Netherlands and the village of the well-known seal centre, you can of course easily get to the mudflats. Between Pieterburen and the dyke there is a beautiful cycle path. You can also get there by car. Although it is of course nicer to just walk or cycle here too. Up at Pieterburen and back via Westernieland, for instance.
