Nieuwe Statenzijl – space travel begins here
The cycle route from Winschoten to Nieuwe Statenzijl, in the north-eastern tip of Groningen, isn’t necessarily picturesque. At least, not in the traditional sense of the word. There are other things to it. Cycling through the countryside here on your own is almost a spiritual experience. Because whether you’re on your own or with someone else, cycling is ultimately always a solitary activity. During the ride, you’re naturally confronted with the vast expanse of space you have to cycle through. In fact, that space simply engulfs you.
That feeling of absolute insignificance comes over you when you get off your bike and stand still for a moment. We’re lucky that there’s little or no wind on the day we cycle to the Dollard. When we get off our bikes and stand in a field, the silence washes over us. There’s something powerful and overwhelming about that silence; it has a real presence. This is also because you can see so incredibly far, whilst at the same time realising that virtually nothing and no one is moving in that vast space – or so it seems. Vast views combined with profound silence create an alienating sensation of being in a world apart.
Upon arriving at Nieuwe Statenzijl, we see the Kiekkaaste: a birdwatching hut in the middle of the salt marsh. Surrounding the hut is a sea of reeds that almost seems to float above the grey waters of the Dollard.
Bokum – the salt marshes beckon
Kloosterburen, where the coastline once ran right alongside, is our starting point. Kloosterburen is a lovely village; everything is built from the same colour of red brick. We pass the Meijer family’s farms – the new and old Bokum. In the farmyard lie piles of stones and all manner of mounds. Farmers are mound-makers. We see mounds not only in the farmyard, but also on concrete slabs along the edge of the field. We come across earth and a pile of baby potatoes around an electricity substation. Mounds. We look at them as a prelude to that great mound, the mound of all mounds: the dyke.
We cross the sleeper dyke at Bokum. The land behind it has a certain charm; a hint of pale green hovers over the marine clay. It slopes gently. Upon reaching the sea dyke, we climb the smooth, billiard-table-like expanse of grass. The grass merges seamlessly into the tarmac. This is engineering at its finest. The wind has picked up by now and we gaze longingly at the salt marshes.
We pass through a cattle gate and enter the area outside the dykes. The salt marsh is the opposite of the dyke. It is a diffuse and uncertain landscape. Small, reed-covered islets seem to float on the water. We feel a longing to stay here. But the landscape is unforgiving. If you walk towards it, you sink; if you stay here, you are absorbed and truly become one with nature. We feel our muscles. The sucking mud, which throws us off balance, has taught us a lesson in humility. This land may be unstable and uncertain. But it is unique, and every Dutch person should visit it to understand what it means to live between land and water.
You can also head to the dyke here
There are many places in Groningen where you can visit the dykes. Some are well-known, whilst others require a bit of searching. There you’ll find stunning views over the salt marshes and the only remaining true wilderness in the Netherlands: the Wadden Sea.
Noordkaap - The northernmost tip of the Dutch mainland, that's Noordkaap. Art work 'De Hemelpoort' marks the spot. From here you have an unobstructed view over the water and the infinite sky above the Wadden Sea. Noordkaap is about ten kilometres north of Uithuizermeeden. There are signs from the village. Follow the route by car, bike or on foot.
Termunterzijl – In Termunterzijl, you eat fish – or at least, that’s what many people do. And preferably as simply as possible. At the Landman fish restaurant, for example, or Vispaleis Westerhuis. On the dyke, you can enjoy the fresh air whilst taking in the view of the Eems. Don’t forget the beautiful ‘Boog van Ziel’ lock either. Cycling in the area is highly recommended. And you can park your car practically right on the dyke.
Punt van Reide – This narrow spit of land is all that remains of the once-prosperous Reiderland. Now, nature reigns supreme here. Along the way, you’ll pass the Fiemel Battery: a remnant of the German Atlantic Wall from the Second World War. Punt van Reide lies to the east of Termunten. You cannot reach the Punt by car, but you can on foot or by bike.
Nieuwstad – There’s no town to be seen in Nieuwstad, but there is a double dyke: a high one on the sea side and a lower one inland. This is where safety, nature, agriculture and recreation come together. From the dyke, you can see the bird-breeding island of Stern. Nieuwstad is situated above Bierum. You can get there by bike, car or simply on foot.
Lauwersoog – The boat to Schiermonnikoog departs from the harbour at Lauwersoog. But there’s plenty more to do. On and around the dyke, you’ll find art: from a huge fishing net and a lookout point to a staircase built into the dyke. It’s a great place to enjoy a fish dinner, with views of the mudflats. Walking, cycling: you can do it all here. And by car, this is perhaps the easiest of all the destinations along the dyke to reach.
Pieterburen - From the mudflat walking capital of the Netherlands and the village of the well-known seal centre, you can of course easily get to the mudflats. Between Pieterburen and the dyke there is a beautiful cycle path. You can also get there by car. Although it is of course nicer to just walk or cycle here too. Up at Pieterburen and back via Westernieland, for instance.
